What happens when a horsemad Ould Wagon moves from Cork to Provence with 2 horses, 2 dogs and a Long Suffering Husband? Why, she gets a third dog, discovers Natural Horsemanship à la Française, starts writing short stories and then discovers a long-buried talent for art, of course…
I noticed some weird papery-looking, leafy things in a box in MC’s house the other day. Being a nosy git, I went over and poked at them. They looked a little like cape gooseberries, but without the berry part.
What are they? I asked. Fleurs de Tilleul, I was told. I already knew that tilleul is the French word for a linden tree, but I had no idea what one would do with their flowers.
What do you do with them? I asked. Make a tisane, I was told. Would I like some? Cool, why not! I love trying new things.
We went outside and Georges chopped a few branches off the linden tree that grows up against the front wall of the house. Each branch was heavy with flowers. The scent is wonderful – a fresh, green smell which is not too strong and not too sweet.
We then chopped the branches into smaller pieces so we could fit them into the back of the Fiat 500 (Jeepy is in the garage. Again.)
And I spent the afternoon of my birthday sitting in the shade, pulling the flowers off those branches. This is what a single flower looks like :
The leafy-looking thing is actually part of the flower. I think it’s called a sepal?
This tisane stuff had better be nice. I’ve got a lot of it to get through.
Finally! The last day of our anniversary trek! Only three weeks after it happened!
The third day dawned windy. Very windy. A full-on Mistral, with gusts up to 90kph expected in the afternoon. The Mistral blows from the north, so it was not only windy, it was damned cold. Coats would be required.
MC was meant to be joining us for the day, but I wondered if the wind would put her off. I phoned her a little after nine to see if she was coming. “I’m on the way!” she said.
Great! She would be with us in about an hour!
We tied the horses up and I spent some time going through Flurry’s tail while we were waiting. With a hoof-pick. As you do. Well, I didn’t have a mane comb with me. I thought it was very creative use of my hoof-pick, to be honest.
MC soon arrived. Quieto recognised his buddies straight away and was happy to see them.
We tacked up quickly and were soon ready to go. You probably can’t quite make them out in the picture above, but Flurry is wearing his trusty old Cavallo Sportboots. After he lost a Renegade boot the previous day, I had asked the BFF to drop the Cavallos up to MC so that she could bring them with her. Although Flurry wasn’t showing any signs of soreness, I wasn’t comfortable with the notion of doing another 15km without boots. This three day trip was about as much work as Flurry would normally do over the course of two weeks (or more!), so there was no way that the rate of hoof growth would be able to compensate for the amount of hoof he would be rasping off over the rough, stony trails.
The plan was to ride to the church we had attempted to visit on our first day. Our host told us where we had gone wrong last time (should have turned left instead of right at the cages full of barking dogs). He also said that the Chapelle de Notre Dame d’Ortiguières was a lovely place for a picnic and would be very sheltered from the wind. Not only that, but our route would keep us in the shelter of the woods most of them time. Seriously, the Mistral is strong. And cold. And wearing. Apparently, back in the olden days, if you committed murder when the Mistral was blowing, it was considered acceptable grounds for acquittal.
It was lovely and calm in the woods and MC was delighted with the trails.
Yes, they were stony, but the trails at home in Reillanne are far worse! Here we even had occasional grassy verges to ride on in order to get off the grotty gritty gravel.
This time, we succeeded in finding the church – hooray! And it did indeed have a very nice picnic area, complete with barbecue, kithen area and toilets. It wasn’t super-sheltered though 😦
We tied the horses onto some conveniently placed trees and they grazed while we ate. Our friend S, who lives nearby in Revest de Bion, joined us for the picnic. She has a horse at GAEC de Pimayon too, and she’ll probably join us next time we do something like this!
Flurry and Aero initially did some very sweet mutual grooming, but they then proceeded to get their ropes tangled up, so we had to separate them.
Poor Flurry ended up in a windier spot. He had better grass around him, though.
There has been a church here since the thirteenth century. It has been destroyed and rebuilt three times over the centuries (guess who went inside and read the history!).
The only part that remains of the original building is the carved stone heads which top the pillars inside.
On the right hand side of the church is a very pleasant gîte which belongs to the community at Revest de Bion. It’s rented out in the summer to tourists.
What a nice place to spend your holidays!
After an hour’s break, we mounted up again. We decided to go back to Les Bayles via a different route, which would bring us through a couple of farmyards. One of these was blocked off, so we took a longer route – no big deal.
We finished up cutting back into the woods via a disused nuclear arms site. It was really bizarre. We turned off a country road onto a wide, straight, level road. Trees and bushes are starting to encroach on the sides of the road and various weeds are trying to push through the tarmac surface. It hasn’t been used since the late 1990s, I suppose. That road runs for about a kilometre, straight up to enormous metal gates and a chain link fence topped with barbed wire. When you get to the gates, there’s a track into the woods at the side which follows the fence around the eastern edge of the site.
You can’t see much, just some low concrete buildings which probably cover the old bunkers.
At one stage, there were eighteen surface-to-surface missiles on the Plateau d’Albion. They were deactivated on September 16, 1996; it took two years and cost $77.5 million to fully dismantle the silos and the complex. (ref. nrdc.org)
It was so, so weird to find this stark reminder of war in the middle of such beauty.
We covered about 18km that day, but we finished fairly early. Flurry and Aero went into their paddock, MC and Quieto went home and the LSH and I went to Sault for a coffee and a wander around the shops.
Dinner that night was venison stew. Les Bayles is on eighty hectares of forestry, and the local hunters always give them a share of what they shoot. You can’t get more locally produced than that!
A delicious end to a great three days.
A confession – we had always intended to trek on the morning of the fourth day and go home late in the afternoon. However, day four dawned even colder and windier than day three. We stepped out of our gîte first thing in the morning, took one look at each other and said “Nah! Let’s go home early!”
Still of one mind, even after thirty years!
At the end of my last post about Tilou, I mentioned that he had discovered his own strength – basically, that it was possible to pull away from his handler while being lunged. Not a good thing – we had a 12.2 pony that used to do this and by God, it was like trying to hold onto a raging bull when she decided to go.
Alexandrine spent a couple of days working on lunging as a result. She worked him in the round pen and then in the big arena, but she did everything she could to give herself the upper hand when she took him into the big arena. She attached the lunge line to the bridle – clipped to the bit ring, passed behind the ears and run through the bit ring on the other side. A severe arrangement, but Tilou had to learn that pulling away was A Very Bad Idea and she was happy that he had got the message. His ridden work continued, with N hacking him out twice during the course of those few days. The first day she rode him out, he reared and she fell off. Oh no, I thought – he’s so smart, he’ll remember that’s how to dislodge his rider! But no, Alex assured me it was nothing. A tiny rear, N slid off, landed on her feet and got straight back on board again. And the next day, everything went perfectly.
I had one final opportunity to sit in on a Tilou session before he left the farm. This time, N was truly flying solo – Alexandrine was away for the day at a clinic.
N is shorter than Alexandrine, so she struggled a little with the bridle. I was holding Tilou, hence no photos! But she succeeded eventually. Sometimes, failure is not an option.
She was under orders not to canter Tilou on the lunge… 
…and she stuck to walk and trot.
Tilou was a little difficult to send off on the right rein. The stragey used by Alexandrine is
1. Ask the horse to back up a couple of step.
2. Show him the direction you want him to go by sliding your ‘leading’ hand along the lunge rein, e.g. if sending off to the right, the right hand shows the way.
3. Push the shoulder by pointing the stick at it so that the horse moves forward (pushing the quarters is always a signal to disengage the back end and turn the front end into the handler).
It wasn’t working, he kept turning in to her. She looked to me for advice. “Be a little quicker and stronger with the stick” was the best I could come up with, but it worked. She is still afraid of making a mistake and undoing his training, but I felt she basically needed to be firmer with him!
After that, he tried to turn in a couple of times, always on the right rein and always at the same point. Anticipate it, I advised her. Send him on a little stronger just when you approach that point. It worked, and she finished the lunging part of her session quite happy.
She practised some in-hand work, then. Still a bit fumble-fingered with the whip and the lunge line, but she’s getting more used to it.
Then it was time to mount up. To be honest, I’ve seen so many young horses being fidgety to mount that I kept my camera down and was ready to come to her assistance. But the big thing about Tilou is that he really isn’t at all bothered by having a rider on his back, and he stood like a champ beside the block, waiting for the reward the he knew was coming. He has come a long way since Ace Jockey Roger was required!
Off they went…
…and it wasn’t always pretty…
…but riding young horses isn’t about ‘pretty.’
It’s about getting the message across and, when the rider is also new to this sort of thing, it’s about building confidence.
I couldn’t stay for the whole session and I left hoping that N would finish well. Apparently she did. And the confidence continued to grow – two days later, she saddled up and rode him home through the woods alone. No fuss, no hassle.
Many thanks to N for allowing me to follow Tilou’s story.
I wish them many happy years together ❤
Anyone who missed it can catch up on the whole Tilou story via the links below :
And FYI, this is the latest breaker to arrive at the farm :
Isn’t he pretty?

